Monday, September 27, 2010

The beach is so distracting...

Sorry for not writing on this for the past ... 2 weeks? Life in Alanya is pretty terrible.

IT IS ABSOLUTELY GORGEOUS. So basically I live in a resort town right along the mediterranean sea (tough life) The logman (our apartment building) is up on this horrific hill that leads up to the old castle dating back to the 13th century. The villa, where we take our classes and have our meals, is an even farther hike up that hill. In the heat, as much as this place is breathtaking, it. is. rough. So hopefully, the weather will cool down sometime in the next month so I don't feel like I'm going to die every time I go to school. Did I mention you take a short-cut through the forest?

Interesting Things I have done in the past two weeks...
if you look closely, the castle walls run along the top.
yeah, I climbed that... 
1. Climbed down most of the castle wall right along the Med; again, thought I was going to die, but survived - 10 points for gryffindor - and the views were insane. There is this one part on the hill that reaches out into the sea where an old monastery is. How the monks used to get to that place without tumbling to an instant death is beyond me, but the ruins are fun to see.

2. Started my Turkish lessons. Mehmet Bey is our professor, he's about 5'4' on a good day, but is the nicest man. He deals with our poor pronunciation and attempts to give us useful phrases to converse with the local people. Learning a new language after 16 years is hard...but I can say that I am very tired/very hungry/very beautiful/ and a diligent student. A+

3. Had class in the villa finally! The villa is amazing. As I said before, it's further up the hill, which, while you're walking to class is no fun, but the views from the villa are unreal. You look out onto the bay and our 'classroom' has windows on three sides to let you see the view all the time. And by 'classroom' I mean 3 walls of couches and you get to get cozy and comfortable. I suggest Georgetown takes note and installs some new classrooms like this back on campus. Hussein Bey is our cook at the villa and he makes our lunches and dinners. He is an amazing cook. Two people sign up for meals to help him each week, so Alison and I were first on duty for lunch last week. This was before our Turkish was any good (not that mine has improved) but it was a bit of a struggle to communicate with him; He smiled and nodded and so did we, so it all worked out wonderfully. Emel Hanim is the woman who organizes our life; sweetest woman; and we have the same conversation every time I get in the door. Hello, How are you, fine thank you and you? fine. And then I run out of things to say and have to scurry away before things get awkward...

The Cave we swam in. SO COOL. 
4. Took a boat trip around Alanya. This might have been my favorite 'field trip' so far. First of all, it counted as a field trip. We spent the entire afternoon out in the sun on a boat, got to jump off and go cliff-diving and cave swimming and swimming in the middle of the sea. HOW IS THAT A FIELD TRIP? I have no complaints and hope that we have more excursions like this in the future. Favorite part: We saw a sea turtle. I want one, sorry leo, but I have replaced you with a larger, more exotic version of yourself.

5. Met our host families! (sort of). We had a cocktail party on Friday, Sept. 24th, at the villa to meet everyone's host families. I met my host father, who doesn't speak a word of English, and I, as you can tell, am not the best conversationalist in Turkish. So there were lots of smiles and nods and then somehow we both realized that this was took awkward and went our separate ways. I do have a host mom and sister that apparently speak some English, so this will be good. I can practice a bit of Turkish and I can still have the safety net of English - lord knows I need it. *I also got to be DJ for a little bit, taking the reigns from Kahraman (our turkish professor) who insisted that we play Seal and Red Hot Chili Peppers all night long...

6. Went to Konya! Konya is a city about 6 hours away from Alanya through the mountains. We went there to see the whirling dervishes perform and to see some mosques (shocker). The ride down was pretty cramped and took 8 hours instead because we got to stop at the archaeological site, Catalhoyuk. This site dates back to 9000BC and we got to see part of the village that they had excavated. Gramma - I thought of you the entire time. After the detour, we made it to the city and got to stretch our legs before going over to the venue for the Dervishes. The performance was amazing; these men  (and in our case, a 4-5 year old boy was thrown into the mix) are able to spin without spotting and with their eyes close for a straight hour and not get dizzy. The whole performance was magic, with the reed flutes playing, and the twirling, and the singing. I suggest everyone see a performance sometime in their life - Turkey for thanksgiving anyone? On Sunday, we woke up early and went and saw a few mosques, some madrases (schools for Islamic learning), before heading back on the bus to Alanya. A rough few days, seeing that half of our group was dying of fever/exhaustion/what have you, but the dervishes were worth it.

7. And my favorite, WENT TO THE BEACH! The beach is amazing, although flooded with large Germans and Russians who should not be traipsing around in bikinis. But it is surreal to be able to go down to the beach in the morning, enjoy the sun and a dip in the Mediterranean before heading up to class. Every time I'm floating in the middle of the sea, I think to myself, THIS IS MY STUDY ABROAD?! Its overwhelming and wonderful and I think everyone should go to turkey on their study abroad - Julia this means you. (although the cat-calling can become quite annoying, but a host brother of a friend told me how I can shut them up so I look forward to trying that out...)

8. Met Bill Bey! Andria would probably kill me if she ever saw this blog and included Bill Bey in it, but Bill is her fiance and he came to visit and came to Konya with us and it was so exciting to meet him! Yes, I realize I am a creep, but they are the best. If only they would break down and invite me to the wedding...I still have hope, the semester is young.



gule gule!

Monday, September 13, 2010

Anka-blah

Ataturk's tomb. 
After a long journey on the bus, we finally made it to Ankara. Instead of going straight to our hotel, which most of us wanted, we instead went to probably the most important site in all of the city: Ataturk's Tomb. This was a compound celebrating the life and accomplishments of Ataturk. There was a museum attached to the tomb and everything was larger than life. The tomb itself was had mosaics everywhere but the actual supposed resting place of Ataturk's body was pretty subdued - a big coffin type thing but only in grey marble, nothing too fancy shmancy. My favorite part was the museum; we got to see the history of Turkey after Ataturk came to power - all the reforms and changes in culture. We also got to see wax figures of Ataturk at his desk; his clothing, his cufflinks, etc. That man had some sweet swag. There are also soldiers that guard his tomb, quite like the tomb of the unknown soldier at Arlington. The difference is, these soldiers looked so young! They barely fit into their uniforms and at one point during the changing of the guard, I caught one of the soldiers laughing. Big no-no.

The Complex - yes, I'm rockin'
tie-dye leggings. 
We left the tomb and finally got to our hotel in Ankara - the Kent Hotel - and let me tell you, it was no Noah's Ark. I have never missed Ali Bey and his family so much. This hotel room was just a bit creepy - the view was of a Turkish man doing his laundry on the balcony and there was no sunlight to the room. We didn't spend much time in the room anyway, so it all worked out.

Our friend, the injured pharmacy man.
The three days we spent in Ankara really could have been condensed into one and we could have gotten to Alanya (read: the beach) so much faster. On Monday, we had an early wake-up call to go to the Anatolian Museum. They had artifacts from thousands of years ago, with wall carvings of soldiers and charioteers, pottery and religious sculptures, and my favorite, jewelry from centuries ago. After the museum, we headed over to the Parliament complex. The building we walked into for security resembled an airport, but then once we got through that building, we got to see the more architecturally appealing buildings. The actual Parliament has a very mod look to it, orange seats, lots of bubble-type lighting, but the greatest fact of the day: the orange seats are made of the skin of gazelles. very luxurious but also quite expensive.

The day pretty much ended there, with dinner thrown in and a viewing of "How to Train your Dragon." Thank god I have other people who appreciate animated movies as much as I do.

Even Turkish ducks fly together!
Tuesday, Sept. 7th, we took a bus tour the city of Ankara. Ankara was turned into the capital city from a quaint town in the twenties, so it was easy to tell that it hadn't been building up its size and neighborhoods for centuries. They have a lot of slum neighborhoods, which didn't add much to the scenery, but it was interesting to see the difference between Istanbul and Ankara - to see how the capital was so less 'cosmopolitan' and european than Istanbul. After the city tour, we took a break in a park (a positive attribute of Ankara is the number of parks), and then ended up eating lunch at a restaurant in the park. A great discovery: Turkey has ducks, but not just any ducks, MUTANT DUCKS that are MASSIVE. and they fly together - hizzah - so I was thrilled to see that even thousands of miles away, Mighty Ducks is relevant to my life.

The most interesting part of our detour through Ankara was meeting the head officer of Religious Affairs . He spoke to us about his job (and how it has 'nothing' to do with the government). It was interesting to hear how he felt Islam should be practiced, and that there was a group of (presumably men) who discussed certain laws of Islam and analyzing the Koran to see what they felt the script was telling the masses. It was easy to see how removed this office was from the government, though, merely by its location a good 40 minutes outside the center of the city. We were set free to roam the streets, aka our small neighborhood, after the meeting was over. The most important stop was the grocery store to stack up on food for our 10 HOUR bus ride on Wednesday. Basically, hazelnut wafer cookies were necessary, as well as a jar of Nutella. Bedtime was early because of the early hour at which we had to be ready to start on our journey to Alanya.

I shall regale you with the tales of the tempestuous journey very soon. (i promise, mom)

Our luggage. I may have had the most, but I apologize for nothing...

Saturday, September 4, 2010

And Then I Found Myself at a Police Station ... Twice




The Henry Ford Building - so American
This is the interior of their student
center. Gtown learn from this...
The 31st of August brought me straight back to junior year of high school. Why, you might ask? Because we took tours of three universities in Istanbul. First stop was Koç University - a school founded by a man last-named Koç who apparently owns a trillion dollar company and decided to form a school aptly named after himself. The school was out of Pleasantville. There was a long winding drive, surrounded by trees. We passed by identical buildings (we later found out they were dormitories) labeled A, B, C, etc. Don't get me wrong, the campus was beautiful, but it was a little too perfect. I'd probably get confused and go to the wrong building for class every day because they all look the same. We got a campus tour though, and then met the Dean and Provost and ate an amazing lunch on a terrace (very casual..). But the food was unbelievable - artichoke salad, almond rice, and profiteroles for dessert (also very turkish). 


the empty building that was supposed to hold
an exhibit in 15 days...there was
still dry wall being put up. 
After Koç, we went to another university, Bilgi University (which means knowledge in turkish). There we thought we were going to see an exhibit: Istanbul 1910-2010, but instead we just got to explore the building in which the exhibit was going to be held. Despite the fact that we didn't get to see the exhibit, the building itself was amazing. First, we went into an old factory that was being used as part of the exhibit - the architecture was very impressive. They also had old engines that were used to help run the factory that were massive - almost the size of our bus that has been taking us around everywhere. The new building that was erected to hold the exhibit was a modern interpretation of this factory (i think..). Lots of steel, tons of windows, and my favorite part - you could see out, but people couldn't see into the building. 


After the factory excursion, we went to one last university, Sehir University. I have no idea what 'sehir' means, but i'm sure it has something to do with education..  This university was recently constructed - and still under construction in most parts of the campus - but our professor, Kahraman, really wanted us to see it because it was the university he is a part of. This building was very modern with bright orange floors at some point (bad idea, it shows dirt/dust), and lots of metal. We listened to another professor talk about his research in Istanbul but it was very hard to concentrate - the conference chairs were too comfortable. 

We had to sprint back to the bus and attempt to beat traffic - unsuccessfully - because we had yet another lecture to go to, but this time, it was over dinner on the rooftop terrace of our hotel, listening to Andrew Finkel, a British reporter who's been in Turkey for quite some time, talk about the upcoming referendum to the Turkish constitution. All I cared was that the food was wonderful. Ali bey, the owner of our hotel, also owns a restaurant and we got to eat pasta - a wonderful break from lamb - and got to do so while Mr. Finkel spoke of important governmental issues. Very intellectual.


Her cartoon doors. WANT. 
Wednesday, Sept. 1st, was a pretty laid-back day. No early AM wake-up time, no long hikes or mosque visits. We went to the Turkish Cultural Center in Taksim Square. At first I was a bit sketched out - we go into this creepy building and up and even creepier staircase, but then end up in this magnificent office area with high ceilings and beautiful woodwork. We listened to a presentation on the center after being presented with a feast of tea, cookies, and coffee. After the lecture, we were off to a Turkish MP's house for lunch (Her son went to Georgetown so now we get to meet her and speak with her - gotta love the Hoya connection). Her apartment was INSANE. In the main area, there was an old elevator that you had to close both doors to, and then you go up in the metal cage. We couldn't figure it out for a while, but eventually understood that if the inside doors weren't closed, the elevator wouldn't go up... oh safety precautions. Her apartment was on the 4th floor, and the windows to her apartment door had glass cut-outs that were cartoon in shape (her husband is a famous Turkish cartoonist). The MP was so welcoming and talked to us about her party, AKP, and her role as a woman in parliament. It was quite interesting, but I was ravenous and the smells of lunch were distracting. We finally got to eat and the food was delicious. Although, Turkish people differ from Americans in the belief that chicken is acceptable as a dessert. I tried chicken flan (?). It wasn't horrible, but I definitely wouldn't recommend it for any future dinner parties. 

Proceeding the MP's luncheon, we found ourselves at a Turkish police station - No, Mom and Dad, I did not do anything illegal as I promised you to stay out of Turkish jail while I was over here - but we had to get residency permits to be allowed to leave the country and be able to get back in on our student visas. We were there FOREVER. I don't know how they get anything done because it was not a very efficient process, but we were eventually released and got to go home.


We lept back on the bus right after the lecture and were set free in our neighborhood to grab dinner. Some of my classmates and I decided to eat at this rooftop restaurant, with amazing views of the Aya Sofya and the Blue Mosque. The sun was setting, the bosphorus looked gorgeous, and it was qutie the hot spot for romantic elderly couples. Apparently PDA is acceptable in this neighborhood of Istanbul...

Sept. 2nd was the trip to Edirne. We had to be downstairs in the lobby by 6:50 AM to leave at 7. I had this wonderful outfit picked out - tie-dye leggings and a CONSERVATIVE top (everything was covered from ankle to forearm to shoulder), but as I was about to reach the last flight of stairs to get to to the lobby I was stopped and told to go change. Apparently one cannot wear leggings to a mosque because it leaves nothing to the imagination. woof. So I was forced to run back up three flights of stairs and change. Needless to say, I am still bitter. But, I did get to pass out for three hours, drowning out the background noise of Gunhan on the microphone unsuccessfully trying to get the attention of 15 college students at 7am. Poor Gunhan... 

Marisa's hiding in the mosque 
When we got to Edirne, our first stop was ... a mosque! It was the 'old mosque' and had a reddish color scheme. I did see some girls our age not cover their hair and was stunned at their indecency. Atleast at the fact that the imam didn't say anything to them, while I was wearing a knee-length skirt the other day and was given toooo many dirty looks to count. The mosque itself was quite gorgeous with original calligraphy that filled the pillars of the mosque. After the old mosque, we saw another mosque, this time, it was a larger scale project. We got to sit down this time, and were lectured for a bit inside about the history. The mosque smelled a bit of feet - a downside to the whole taking-your-shoes-off situation, but it was pretty nonetheless. 

Our 3rd stop was a Roman castle/ruin. It was in the middle of a random road which was interesting to see how the old and new coexisted in this day and age. We made our way through a bazaar to get to lunch and were offered the delicacy of Edirne, liver. I tried it (be proud of your former picky eater, parents). It was actually fried beyond recognition so it wasn't too bad. The biggest obstacle of the day was - and sorry to be inappropriate - finding a bathroom. The restaurant didn't have a bathroom (which I find hard to believe..) but when asked where the restrooms were, we were showed outside, down a street and around a corner to a public bathroom. Usually, I would say this would be fine. But in turkey, they do not have normal toilets ... they have what we have named "the squatty potty." So if you have bad balance, I do not suggest you travel to Turkey. It was traumatizing and I'm sure I will need some sort of therapy to get past that dark experience... 

After lunch, we saw one more mosque and then were allowed to explore the bazaars. Sylvia and I decided to check out the school supply store (I found someone who loves buying notebooks/pens just as much as I do). After the pen store, we got some chai and then met back in front of a statue of Ataturk (quelle surprise), and then made the long trip back to Istanbul. 

Again, we had dinner on our own and a few of us decided to eat at a seafood place right by the hotel. I had pizza - again, after lots of lamb and ekmek, I had to spice things up. We were all exhausted by the end of dinner and just ended up going back to the hotel and passing out. These 10pm bedtimes are going to have to be broken when I have legitimate work to do... 

A view of what I wish was
my mansion on the Bos...
Yesterday, Sept. 3rd, was another pretty lame day. We started off the day at 9:30 (a godsend) and went to the Sabanci Museum - part of the Sabanci University and named after the Sabanci family. The Sabanci family was apparently enemies with the Koc family (a little Capulet and Motague if you ask me) but I would have to say the Sabanci family wins. Their museum (which was converted from their mansion into such) is right on the Bosphorus and has breathtaking views. The museum itself was quite impressive - covering 8000 years of Istanbul's history. The mansion which was converted into a museum also has an amazing view of the river. A few of us sat out on the terrace and drank tea soaking in the view - very Grace Kelly/Cary Grant-esque, especially because Frank Sinatra was playing in the background. 

Georgetown, take note. This is what all of
 our buildings could look like ..
After the museum, we took a ride to Roberts College (oldest American university abroad) and again, I felt like a junior in high school. If only I knew of these universities when I was a junior ... These were the old stomping grounds of Kahraman and Gunhan, so they were quite nostalgic about the place. We walked around a bit, grabbed lunch, were surrounded by dogs and cats as we ate lunch, each of them vying for our attention to get us to give them food - I couldn't resist. We got back on the bus, and 10 minutes into our drive BACK to the police station, we realized WE LOST CASSIE. Cassie is a girl on our trip who likes to wander off on her own ... so of course we all knew that if any of us got lost, it would be Cassie... so we had to completely change our plans and go back to the university - easier said than done - and try and find her. Most of us got to stay on the bus, but the search party of Gunhan and Colin went out to find her. While we waited on the bus, a snake was apparently in the road and a taxi driver stopped right before hitting it, got out of his cab, grabbed the snake with a handkerchief and proceeded to get back in the cab and drive away with the snake out the window - dinner perhaps? 

The greatest pens in the world 
Eventually, we found Cassie and tried again to go to the police station. We needed to get residency permits as I said before, so we had to wait in line as they randomly called out peoples' names (alphabetical order would have made more sense, but I doubt the Turkish govt. wants my opinion). We were there for an hour and a half in a stuffy room, but the lucky 10 of us who were called first got to go back to the hotel. Nap time was not disrupted, thank god.  

Dinner last night was a bit different. We all went to a traditional fasil restaurant in Taksim Square. The food was amazing; many different courses so, of course not realizing this, I filled up on bread before being able to enjoy the deliciousness. The most interesting' part of the night was the music. Traditional turkish music was playing and my professor wanted everyone to dance. It was a sight that was both intriguing and disturbing. Needless to say, I did not participate in the dance - I think it was in everyone's best interest if I refrain from dancing ... 

After dinner, we went out in Taksim, tons of fun; got to hear all the American music and some euro techno in between. Unfortunately, Britney did not play. 

I don't think Ataturk would be happy with this cafe. 
Today was a FREE DAY. We got to wake up whenever we wanted - don't worry dad, I was up at a reasonable hour of 10 am. A few girls had planned on going shopping in Taksim and then checking out the Grand Bazaar so we made our way to Taksim using the tram line. I always feel so official and legitimate when I use the public transportation in other cities. Walking around Taksim is so different from Sultanhmet (our neighborhood). So many different people, sounds, smells (good and bad). I loved the fact we could explore the city and not have to worry about staying with the group. 



a snippet of what to expect
at the Grand Bazaar
The Grand Bazaar was definitely my favorite part. There was so much going on, you could find ANYTHING you needed there. They had shoes, bags, jewelry, lanterns, rugs, suitcases, etc. I managed to find a fez (so stylish) and my favorite purchase, a TURBAN. Yes, i promise I will put up a picture of this - my roommate actually got a snap of me in my aladdin pants wearing the turban so I shall be able to share with the world my newfound fashion sense. I don't think Alanya is ready for me. Or my professors for that matter...It will be grand. Dinner was at Ali Bey's restaurant. Ali Bey is the owner of our hotel and has been the most gracious host, always checking in on us and making sure everything is perfect. His restaurant was perfect. It even had an international section of the menu so I got to eat delicious linguine. After dinner, following tradition, we stopped and got ice cream and then wandered back to the hotel. Tonight will be filled with packing for Ankara. 7 hour bus ride here we come.. 





Gule Gule!